October 18, 2024
Autumn is synonymous with Himalayas!
Once the high temprate of hiking in Mallorca has ended and coinciding with the end of the season of monsoon rains in Nepal, Sóller ben amunt moves back to the country of the Himalayas.
After hours of flights, waits and stopovers, we arrive at the renewed international airport of Kathmandu where our friend and trusted guide, Alon, is already waiting for us. This year 6 years ago from the first time we agreed, precisely during the trekking that we are about to start.
The first hours for Kathmandu are the most special, especially for people who visit the country for the first time. The cultural and landscape contrast, the circulatory chaos, the cocktail of smells, colors and sounds do not leave the visitor indifferent. We take the opportunity to make the latest purchases of material for the trekking, visit part of the city and dinner in the impressive Buddhist stupa of Boudhanath.
Once the first schock is over, it is time to undertake the road trip to Pokhara, the second city of Nepal and the capital of the Annapurnas region. The journey lasts about 8 hours that allow us to discover the different landscapes that separate the Kathmandu valley from Pokhara. Along the way we see the first great mountains such as the Manaslu massif, the first 8000 we have seen this year. As we approach Pokhara, the most spectacular peaks of the Annapurnas massif appear (Annapurna Sud, II, III, IV or Machhapuchre), peaks of 6 and 7 thousand meters high that will accompany us during the coming weeks.
After spending the night in Pokhara it’s time to start the adventure, it’s time to start walking! We move to Birethanti, the starting point of this terkking to the Annapurna Base Camp. Our goal is to reach this glacier circus located at the foot of the emblematic southern wall of Annapurna I (8,091m), a mystical place and long forbidden to the West: the Sanctuary of the Annapurnas (4,200m).
After the formalization of the permits to enter the Annapurna Conservation Area, latest material checks, backpack adjustment and a brief briefing by the guides, we started! The first stage takes us through farmland and rice terraces, crossing the first hanging bridges and ending with a good run of stairs up to Ulleri, where we will spend the night near 2,000m in height. We are in the middle of the week of Tihar, festival of the lights celebrated throughout Nepal, so we could enjoy a sample of popular dances by the inhabitants of this village.
The second day is always a special day. We walk for the first time through the Rododendres forest and arrive at Ghorepani, a village located on a hill above 2,800m with privileged views: we eat with the Dhaulagiri (8,167m) in the background. The initial plan was to rest and get up early to see the sunrise, but since the group is animated and the sky clear, we decided to go up to Poon Hill (3,200m) to see the sunset as well. We surpass for the first time the 3,000m in height to attend a show for the senses with views of the Dhaulagiri, Annapurna Sud, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchre among others. Back in Ghorepani, we have dinner and sleep soon, it’s time to get up early!
After 4 in the morning we return to climb to Poon Hill to enjoy the sunrise this time. One of the highlights of this trekking. Then we return to Ghorepani to have a snack, take backpacks and start the ascent to the back of the Thapla Danda (3,165m) from where we enjoy a 360o panoramic view. After a long descent through jungle forests, up and down stairs we reach Tadapani, another village located on a hill with privileged views. Stopping for lunch and taking strength, we see the first monies as they fly over a group of vultures. It’s time to follow our descent to the next village for a night. It has been a long and hard stage but it has been worth it!
The fourth stage begins with a long and steep descent, downhill until reaching a sufficient height to cross the Kimrong river thanks to a spectacular hanging bridge. Once we have crossed the river, we have to recover all the lost height. A long ascent that allows us to locate ourselves already in the valley of the Modi river. We are in Chomrong, the last village as such and we already have in front of us the valley that we will have to go back during the following days.
After a soft stage, we could say recovery, it is time to continue taking height. From Chomrong (2,100m) we start again a stepped descent to cross one of the tributaries of the Modi. Through farmland and Buddhist temples we ascend to Sinuwa, from where we will walk again through rhododendron forests, combined this time with bamboos until we reach the village where we will eat and that precisely takes the name of the predominant vegetation: Bamboo. With a full belly we will continue to Dovan (2,600m) where we will spend the night.
The sixth day is also a special day. It’s time to sleep in Deurali, above 3,000m in height! The group is animated and in shape and in the middle of the morning we reach 3,200m of Deurali. After the rigorous tea break, we leave the backpacks and continue upwards. The goal: to reach the Machhapuchre Base Camp (3,650m), have lunch and go back to sleep in Deurali. The Base Camp is a spectacular place with views of Gangapurnna (7.455m) and at the foot of the Machhapuchre or Fish Tail (6.993m), one of the most unique and special mountains in the region, which has accompanied us during the last days of trekking and now we have to touch. A mountain much loved by parts of the locals, sacred mountain and therefore forbidden for climbers, as it is considered the home of the goddess Shiva. Having lunch we started the descent to Deurali, we have made a good point of acclimatization that will surely sell us very well for the stage of tomorrow, the most important of all…
Seventh stage, Queen stage. Today is the great day, today we will pass 4,000m in height and we will arrive at the South Base Camp of Annapurna. We start the ascent to the Machhapuchre Base Camp, an itinerary that we already know yesterday, where we stop to have a very hot tea. From here we leave the course of the Modi River, turn west and walk parallel to the immense glacier that is born at the foot of Annapurna. The height is noticeable and the advance is slowed down. On the left the Hiunchuli, in front of the Annapurna South and on the right the Tharpu Chuli; landscape and perspective totally different from the previous days. We start to see the camp in the background, there is less left! We exceed 4,000m in height and little by little the members of the group arrive at the foot of the poster that welcomes us to the Sanctuary of Annapurna (4,130m). With the emotions on the surface, the joy is maximum and shared, we have achieved it! The whole group has passed the test with a note, now it is time to rest and enjoy the views and sunset. Despite the spectacular nature of the environment, Annapurna resists us and hides behind a veil of niguls throughout the day, she will have to cross her fingers and wait…
We got up early to try our luck. It is still dark and the sky is totally starred. A strange shine draws our attention, so we leave the rooms and almost feel breathless: we have in front of the south wall of Annapurna, a 4,000m wall that rises to more than 8,000m, totally uncovered and of a bright white due to the reflection of the moon and the stars. Despite the low temperatures, no one wants to miss the spectacle of the dawn break, with the Annapurna wall illuminated by the first rays of sun that dye the white of the snow of an intense orange. We Berenem and start the long descent back to the Machhapuchre Base Camp, Deurali, Dovan and Bamboo, where we will spend the night.
The ninth stage is also the penultimate. It is time to continue descending to Chomrong, where we take the opportunity to buy clementines from the Himalayas, they are not as sweet as those we have at home but they surprise us pleasantly. Tea brek and let’s go! We have a short but very pronounced descent of stairs to Jhinu Danda (1,780m), first day below 2,000 after a week. Jhinu is located on top of a loin from where you can see the immensity of the Modi River valley and the capital of the Gurung ethnic group on one of its margins, Ghandruk. Jhinu is known for the springs, so after lunch we start the descent through the jungle to the river bank and relax in the hot water pools. A hot bath after 9 days of trekking!
The tenth and last stage takes us from Jhinu Danda (1,780m) to Siwai (1,300m). A pleasant walk along the river, rediscovering us again with farmland, rice terraces and civilization. We cross one of the newest and longest suspension bridges in Nepal (287m long and 140m high). It’s been 10 days of trekking, more than 100km, 8000m of ascent and 8000 of descent through unique landscapes!
It’s time to rest. We spend a few days in Pokhara where people take the opportunity to visit temples, local markets, the Pagoda de la Paz, sail with canoe through Lake Pewa, enjoy the sunrise from the hill of Sarangkot and even fly with paragliding!
It is time to return to Kathmandu to take the flight back home, back to reality, but before that we have a last surprise prepared for the group: we will stay one last night in the middle of the main square of the old city of Bhaktapur, a city forbidden to foreign visitors from the afternoon. We stay in an old temple converted into a hotel, all for us and this allows us to enjoy a quiet and pleasant night walk through the old town. Unbeatable dinner in the roof top.
The last day has arrived, more than two weeks have passed and it is time to say goodbye Kathmandu and goodbye Nepal, not before visiting the Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath, located on top of a hill in the center of the valley. This temple is known for the large number of wild monies that live in its surroundings, as well as for the panoramic views of the entire city of Kathmandu. Now it is time to say goodbye to a country that leaves no one indifferent and this time has not been an exception!